Cold Weather Mountaineering Tips

When mountaineering on high mountains your two biggest environmental concerns are the lack of oxygen at altitude and the biting cold. The first can only really be dealt with by properly acclimatizing to the thin air. Don’t rush your ascent and if you have the time try to spend a couple of extra nights over and above the usually recommended ascent profile. When leading an expedition a few years ago to Mt Mera in Nepal I got all 11 members of our party safely to high camp at just under 6000 meters in altitude without a single case of altitude sickness.

Dealing with cold, on the other hand, has a lot to do with how you prepare before you even leave home. Make sure you have a suitable cold-weather mountaineering headlamp such as the Petzl MYO XP Belt, which allows you to keep your battery pack under your clothes so that the batteries don’t freeze. Of use a flashlight that can take Lithium batteries. These are lighter and much more resistant to the cold.

When it comes to dressing you need enough gear to keep you warm when stationary as well as something warm but also breathable for when you are exercising hard. Nothing beats a big down parka for times when you are in camp and trying to stay warm. But when climbing you are putting out an enormous amount of energy and generating heat and sweat, so your clothing has to allow it through while still providing some insulation.

My favourite mid-layer is a Patagonia pullover. These fleece tops move moisture brilliantly, can be unzipped over the chest to let out extra heat when you are climbing and also provide lots of insulation without weighing very much. You also need a good shell layer made from Gore-Tex or eVent that will allow your perspiration to pass through but that will still protect you from wind and snow. Don’t forget high altitude gloves. I find that insulated mittens are best. They are clumsy but your fingers help to keep each other warm.

The last issue is to think about your water supply. Many climbers carry a stainless steel thermos flask to keep sweet tea warm. This is heavy but the tea can help you keep going when tired. Most people carry their main water supply in wide-mouthed bottles such as those produced by Nalgene. That way if the water starts to freeze on the outside there will still be unfrozen water in the middle. Be sure to get one made of plastic as your lips will stick to a frozen metal bottle. Also be careful about using a hydration system as even the insulated ones will often freeze in the pipe and valve leaving you with not water.

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